The days at Cherating were what I had been hoping we would experience on our days off the bike. At our small homestay I really felt a sense of community with the other travellers we met and our hosts. Every day we woke up to blue sky. It was hot and the sea was warm, although plagued with jellyfish. The first night we decided to go up river on a boat and see the fireflies. I usually hate organised tours but this one proved entertaining (our host was mad and obsessed with fireflies) and quite peaceful. It was fantastic being on the water at night and hearing the sounds of the mangrove forest surrounding us.
Pina Coladas at Beach Bar. They hit the spot
We played football at the beach regularly and frequented the aptly named Beach Bar, a small shack on the beach that served amazing Pina Coladas for what equated to $5 NZD. We are on a very tight budget trying to make it to London but we all are fairly weak when staring a Pina Colada dead in the eye. Every night we would make our way to the bar and watch the sun go down behind us looking out at the sea. On our first night we met a group of French travellers, L'antxa, Marie and Johanna. We joined them and the local boys down the beach for a bonfire and a jam on the guitars we had lugged from Yogyakarta. We introduced them to botched renditions of Flight of the Conchords and Crowded House, doing our best to export New Zealand's culture to the world.
Young Wesley Schneider soon to make his dash for the waves
On the second day we decided to take it slow and then go to the turtle conservation sanctuary to set some baby turtles off on their life adventure. That was a real highlight watching them instinctively struggle down the beach and throw themselves into waves. I like to think our ten little guys are all still out there in one piece loving life. At least the birds didn't get them as we had a close eye on them.
Wes almost airborne. The excitement of the big blue wobbly thing that mermaids live in, was too much for the little man
That night we let the hair down. A few beers at the old faithful were followed by a few more at the surf club - there was a party on that night and we were invited. Certainly not being ones to turn down such an invitation we were there and ready to have a good time. 4 beers later and we were feeling very ready to hit the dance floor which did happen. By 3am we called it a night and had a swim in the low tide water.
When it was time to go we were fairly upset about it. Our homestay hosts had fed us, watered us, and looked after us like we were their own. It was fairly overwhelming considering what we were paying per night to be there. I particularly had some fairly significant life epiphanies on the solemn ride up the coast, those I'm keeping to myself. I think the dawn of the quarter century prompted a bit more introspection.
"It's a new dawn, it's a new day, it's a new life... for meeeeeeee. And I'm feeling good"- Freddie Gillies 2017
We rode up the coast to Dungun where we watched a beautiful sunrise over the east coast as a thunderstorm raged on one side of the horizon. The coastal ride was fantastic. Long (slightly too long) straights and white sand beaches. Our trusty bar tender friend from Cherating suggested we go to Pulau Kapas, an island off the coast, instead of dash straight up to the Perhentian Islands. It was impossible to make it that far north for my birthday so we decided to go to Kapas. The bikes were loaded onto a fast ferry and we unloaded them onto the most perfect white sand beach you could imagine. With no roads the bikes were somewhat of a hindrance but we dared not part with them. Dragging them through the wet sand we arrived at the far reaches of the island to a campsite right on the beach. Here we paid RM 30 per night ($10) for all three of us to camp within metres of the coral beach.
The closest thing to a road on Pulau Kapas
The setting was ideal but the sand was less than ideal to camp in and got everywhere. The first nights sleep was impossibly hot and we all didn't sleep much at all. Waking up as a 25 year old, I threw myself into the sea and, with goggles on courtesy of Rick Towle, swam out to watch the fish. I'm now closer to 30 than 20.
Heaven is a place on earth. I'm so #blessed to have spent my birthday here
We had egg on toast and mango smoothies for breakfast daily and spent our time walking the island and swimming in the sea between a few sedate beers at the beach bar. It was the most relaxing time and Kapas has made its way onto the list of places I must visit again. That night we ran down the beach as a storm hit very quickly and violently. The tents survived and the temperature dropped so we slept well and headed off the next day.
Arthur enjoying not having a saddle up his arse for 6 hours
My form was worse, but least I'm not as hairy as the Yeti
The next few days involved cycling through the 2,000 km mark and on to Kuala Besut, the ferry town before the Perhentian Islands. The coastal ride was long, straight and fairly exhausting with the wind but we got there all in one piece. It was amazing watching the change in people and environment. The further north we went the more conservative and Muslim it became. We were always greeted in a very friendly manner (except one little shit on a scooter who flipped us the bird - I laughed and smiled at him and then gave him the two finger salute).
Each bike (22kg) carrying 24kg of luggage, and in Arthur's case 100kg of person
The day after we arrived in Kuala Besut we were going to catch the ferry to Perhentian Kecil, the smaller of the two islands but the one with the action. The ferry town had nothing much worth writing about except some exceptional Roti Canai with egg and cheese served with a side of two curries. The coffee they served was also spectacular - the usual Malaysian coffee with condensed milk. This needs to be introduced to New Zealand. We had our breakfast and, after being convinced it was safe, left our bikes at the ferry office. I felt a bit sick leaving them but they were adamant it was the right thing to do. Besides I had the ladies contact number if anything went wrong. Some relief that was. We got on the boat not knowing what to expect.
The last day spent in my first quarter. I look a lot older now
