Indonesia fell involuntary tributary to the Dutch colonial monster in 1800. We managed to witness a few preserved images of this period of time with limited Dutch architecture close to the port. Ultimately the Dutch had no interest in exporting their culture to this particular colony and instead focussed on how much they could extract at as little cost possible. Jakarta, with it's sprawling suburbs that exhibited both massive wealth and poverty, seems to have come to embody that sentiment. There are few spaces designed for public enjoyment that we experience back at home. The wealthy seem to enjoy the spoils, riding in tinted Mercedes from roof-top bar to ten story shopping centre, and the poor seem to do whatever it takes to get by. It wasn't the most liveable city but it certainly was alive.
We were all slightly apprehensive about the flight to Kuala Lumpur. We didn't know if not possessing tickets out of Malaysia would be a problem through customs. We didn't know if the bikes would arrive in one piece. Getting on the plane proved very simple. Jakarta airport was very efficient indeed. This flight was completely different to the last. We were excited for a new country, one that promised amazing food, diverse culture, and white sand beaches.
Arriving at KL International we geared up for what we expected to be a long and stressful process of getting through customs. I had all the documents ready including letters from LBCNZ stating our route and objectives. We got off the plane promptly and immediately found our luggage. The bikes, after a short jam on the conveyer belt, were found not long after. The efficiency of Malaysia already beginning to show. Arriving at immigration we were ready and all dressed in the same sponsored uniforms, attempting to gain a bit more credibility. After giving up our fingerprints they immediately stamped our books giving us 90 days in Malaysia. Arthur was so surprised when the Immigration Officer handed his passport back he looked a bit stunned and said "is that it?"
We were approached by a taxi driver before we even exited the airport (this is all within an hour at this point!). She offered us a ride to the city for 220 RM which equates to around $70 NZD. Considering the amount of gear we had and the fact that the airport was 65 kms away from the city, this seemed very reasonable indeed. We were absolutely fizzing to be in Malaysia at this point. The drive in immediately showcased the significant differences between Malaysia and Indonesia. We were driving on a four lane toll road, traffic was orderly and not leaning on the horn, the air felt cleaner, and the buildings were modern. There were endless rows of palm trees by the roadside - not a native palm forest but instead a palm oil plantation. This stretched on for many miles.
As the city came into view we got a glimpse of the iconic Petronas Twin Towers, elegantly lit up against the skyline. It's always slightly surreal when you see something you have known most of your life with your own eyes. We arrived in the Mont Kiara suburb where we were staying with Rick Towle, a friend of the family and delegate of the United Nations Refugee department. The Towle's house completely blew us away. We had been packing ourselves into rooms designed for one or two (max) people at the cheapest available price. We felt right out of place at the most beautiful and palatial family home with access to a pool and tennis court which were part of the gated community. Rick was out at dinner but in his usual generous way had insisted we enjoy a beer before he got home. When he did we stayed up talking and unwinding from the flight.
The next day we were in no hurry to do anything. Rick got up and made us coffee and a fantastic fruit smoothie before heading to work. We got to work on our bikes, unpacking them and inspecting for signs of damage. They looked to be fine. We spent the next three hours rebuilding and tinkering with the bikes before throwing ourselves into the pool. We had so much space and were in such a wonderful relaxed environment for what would have otherwise been a fairly stressful job. Having the rest of the day off we uber-ed into the centre of the city. The towers were incredible up close and we walked through the central park and shopping area. Everything was so clean, meticulously planned out, and set up for public enjoyment. It was a real contrast to what we had experienced so far.
The Petronas Twin Towers
The next few days were spent catching the underground to various sites (the Batu Caves and Brick Fields, or Little India, were highlights). The food was amazing - a mix of Indian, Malay, and Chinese. It was a pleasant change from what in Indonesia is a fairly limited culinary offering.
A cheap meal - Samosa and chickpea curry for less than $1 NZD per plate
Every day we were amazed by how amazingly efficient and organised the city was. There was evidently a significant gap between the rich and the poor but the city was set up in such a way as to cater for both - the underground was cheap and the parks open for all. Rick took us around a tour of China Town and some local markets. Both were alive with energy and buzzing with people getting ready for the end of Ramadan, the holiday period of Eid.
Chickens at the market - not shrink wrapped at a supermarket. The locals have a healthy understanding and appreciation of what they eat
The Batu Caves
During our stay in Kuala Lumpur we were constantly treated by our host. Rick constantly took us around the city, bought us food, made us food, gave us beers and looked after us like a father. After weeks on the road in a fairly alien country it was the most unbelievable nice experience being looked after in a family home not a hotel. We are endlessly grateful to Rick and the Towle family for their contribution to our mad expedition. After five nights (we ended up staying a bit longer because it was so nice) we packed up the bikes and got on our way. Kuala Lumpur had suggested we were in for an amazing time in Malaysia.
